To make the daily operation of the toilet comfortable, a special pad is used - the seat. Moreover, most of them are equipped with a lid. It is with the breakdown of the latter that one most often has to face. Agree, not much is pleasant in the broken fasteners.
But even the usual fastening of the toilet lid often causes people questions. No wonder when you consider that, depending on the model, the fasteners and configuration of the toilet lids differ dramatically.
Do not call the plumbing because of such a trifle? Do you want to replace the seat with your own hands, but are afraid of inexperience to break a new one? We will help you deal with the secrets of installing a new seat - the article discusses the basic design of the toilet seats and their features.
Detailed instructions are also provided for securing the hinged lid and models equipped with a micro-lift. For a better understanding of the replacement process, the material in our article is supplemented by visual photos and a video showing the installation of a seat with a micro-lift.
Constructive design of a toilet seat with a cover
A sanitary appliance, which is an integral part of the toilet of modern housing, is called a toilet. The device itself is quite simple, quite understandable to a person inexperienced in plumbing.
Models of toilets of modern production are structures that are mounted on the wall (hanging) or mounted on the floor (floor).
You may be interested in information about the intricacies of choosing a toilet with installation, discussed in detail in another article.
In turn, floor-mounted plumbing is additionally divided by type:
- toilet bowls complete with a tank;
- tank and bowl as separate components;
- appliances tightly attached to the wall.
The materials for the manufacture of plumbing are porcelain or earthenware. In terms of performance, faience is inferior to porcelain.
Porcelain toilet equipped with a toilet seat on the basis of high-quality plastic. Similar models for floor installation belong to prestigious and expensive products. Nickel-plated fittings are used to fasten the cover
The flush toilet system operates on the basis of a manual button control. There are also models where the drain process is electronically controlled.
According to standards, the height from the floor to the top of the appliance lid should be 400 mm. The parameter for static load is 200 kg. This information can come in handy when it comes time to engage in mounting for sitting the toilet.
You may also find useful information about the size of the toilet, discussed in our other article.
For modern models, toilet seats with covers are made, as a rule, on the basis of plastic (duroplast, polypropylene, thermodure, supralit, etc.).
This material is considered to be positively hygienic and therefore welcomed as optimal, despite the rather weak load properties. True, the properties of the toilet seat largely depend on the quality of the plastic structure, as well as on the design features of the fixing system.
Toilets can be considered universal products, because in most cases, due to their compatibility, questions arise: how to remove a broken seat from the toilet and how to install a new seat on the toilet.
In addition, it is possible to select toilet seats during the replacement process:
- soft
- semi-rigid;
- hard.
In this case, the fasteners from the seat kit can be plastic or metal. By design, the fasteners are made different in shape and size.
But in general, the principle of fastening remains the same, despite the variety of models.
Fasteners for the lid and seat on the toilet. This is the simplest version of mounting hardware, which is often used on budget models. Installation nuts tighten by hand with little effort
Saddle covers on modern toilets are represented by an impressive constructive variety of movement mechanisms. Variations - from the simplest articulated mechanisms to mechanics such as "Soft-closing" and electronic bidet covers with presence sensors.
Depending on the specific model, there is a chance to encounter such fasteners for the toilet seat when you can’t do without a careful study of the design features.
The procedure for removing the usual toilet seat is simple:
- Raise the toilet lid (the toilet seat remains lowered).
- Unscrew the fastening nut from the bottom left under the rear porcelain edge.
- Perform the same operation on the right side.
- Remove a toilet seat from the toilet.
Plastic nuts are usually freely loosened by hand. By the way, tightening such accessories strongly is not recommended, since the plastic bolts simply break off from the constriction.
An example of mounting a seat on a standard model. A plastic stud and a polyurethane nut are used as a fastening element. The advantage of this type of compound is that it is not susceptible to corrosion and oxides.
Installing a new cover is done in the same way. The holes on the cover must be combined with the holes on the rear edge of the plumbing, insert the mounting bolts into the mounting holes and screw the nuts on them from the bottom.
There are accessories with washers and without washers. For the “without washers” configuration, universal nuts are made in which one of the end edges has a washer shape.
Often you can find the option of fasteners for the toilet seat: a metal bolt - a nylon nut. This tandem gives a more reliable grip.
Type # 1 - Swivel Mechanisms
Household toilets are usually equipped with toilet seats, the covers of which are seated on plastic, metal-plastic, metal hinges. The design of a dynamic mechanism on a plastic joint is most common.
On the one hand, the plastic version is good in terms of the absence of corrosion effects on the connection elements. But in terms of reliability, plastic hinges are inferior to metal products.
Plastic fittings have to be changed more often. As a rule, seats from the range of inexpensive products are equipped with hinges on plastic. Metal hinges are often a component of a perfect rotary mechanism - a microlift.
This looks like one of the options for a simple articulated mechanism. A similar system is used on inexpensive plumbing fixtures. Disadvantage - frequent opening / closing of the lid contributes to the rapid wear of the nylon bushings
Dismantling plastic hinges may be required, for example, in case of damage to the cover and the need to replace it with a new one. Here you do not need to remove the general fastening of the toilet lid, just remove the hinge shafts.
There are lots of manufacturers constructive solutions for fixing the shafts in the landing groove. The simplest solution is to have a locking pin at one end of the shaft. It is necessary to tighten the pin and pull the shaft out of the bore of the hinge.
Often there are locks that remove the lock by turning them 90-180 degrees counterclockwise. There are also shaft retainers with screws and screws.
Installation on a toilet seat with one of the simplest hinge designs:
- Align the openings of the toilet seat ears and the cover.
- Insert the nylon sleeve into the hole on the inside of the toilet seat.
- Place the end of the metal stud inside the nylon bush.
- Do the same on the opposite joint.
- String decorative washers and gaskets onto the studs.
- Place the entire structure on the toilet by inserting the studs into the mounting holes.
The procedure ends with fixing by screwing the nuts onto the studs from the bottom of the toilet edge.
A short photo course will clearly familiarize you with the installation procedure and the standard sequence of actions for fastening the lid for the toilet:
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Before installing a new seat with a cover, we study the instructions attached to the product and check the equipment
On the back of the seat we put rubber shock absorbers that provide a soft "fit" and protect the toilet seat material from scratches
We put plastic hinges - hollow rods connecting the seat with the cover. Toilets of fastening to the toilet will start in their cavity
In the cavity of the plastic hinges we start the parts of the metal holders designed to strengthen the connection between the cover and the seat. Two screw-threaded rods should protrude perpendicular to the back of the seat
We remove dust and dirt from the toilet, wipe it dry, because it will partially be under a lid that no one will take off every time when cleaning
We insert metal pins with screw threads into the holes on the toilet, trying to prevent the hinges from popping out of their socket at this time
Align the cut-in rods installed in the holes if they are skewed during installation. We check the location of the cover and seats on top, correct if something has moved or skewed
After checking the position, correcting the defects and distortions that arose during installation, we tighten the fixing plastic nuts from the bottom
Step 1: Learning the configuration and instructions
Step 2: Install Rubber Shock Absorbers
Step 3: Install Plastic Hinges
Step 4: Install Toilet Seat Mounts
Step 5: Preparing the toilet for cover installation
Step 6: Installing the seat with cover
Step 7: Align the holders in case of skew
Step 8: Locking the Seat with Nut Cover
Type # 2 - devices of the micro-elevator series
Increasingly, plumbing for the toilet appears on the market, equipped with seats, the lid of which is set in motion by a "landing in place" semi-automatic mechanism - a micro-lift.
How to install a seat with a lift on the toilet? Just like a standard toilet seat. The mounting scheme is practically no different. But the hinge mechanism of this model has some features that will have to be taken into account in case of repair.
The hinge mechanism in the design of the system "microlift". It is often a design that is easy to disassemble, but extremely difficult to assemble without compromising performance. True, according to the degree of complexity, "microlifts" are different
The mechanics of the micro-lift are built on the following details:
- stock;
- spring;
- piston;
- cylinder.
Typically, wear or tear on any of these items causes the toilet seat to be removed in order to install a new one. Repairing a lift is quite difficult for people without the appropriate experience.
Meanwhile, a common cause of microlift failure is the banal “descent” of lubricant from the surface of the piston cylinders. Such a defect appears as a result of forced pressure on the cover by the users themselves - an attempt to forcefully lower the seat.
If desired, some designs of lifts can be disassembled and try to restore a uniform distribution of damper lubricant over the entire surface of the cylinder.
You may be interested in information on how to fix a toilet lid.
But for most owners, it’s easier to buy a new seat-cover with a micro-lift. You can also try to order a separate microlift system from the manufacturer for a specific toilet model.
The installation kit usually contains two studs with heel pads, two gaskets, two nuts and two micro-lifts.
Photo of the assembly of the toilet seat for installation with a "microlift". It is important to observe the exact correspondence of the installation of left-sided and right-sided "elevators". The bolt fasteners of such joints are usually protected against corrosion.
To install a new seat with a micro-lift on the toilet bowl, the following actions are performed (one of the existing options):
- to put micro-lifts on the pins of the patch sites;
- put the cover of the toilet seat with the top side on the floor;
- insert the microlift bushings into the holes of the hinged ears;
- left lifter on the left (mark L), right on the right (mark R);
- on the trailing edge of the toilet bowl, over the existing holes, lay gaskets;
- install the seat with the lift on the toilet by inserting the studs into the holes;
- secure the entire structure from below with the nuts from the kit.
There are developments, for example, of the well-known company Roca, where micro-lifts are rigidly fixed to the seat body. The user at the time of installation of the seat only needs to insert the brackets into the mounting holes of the toilet bowl, wrap them with the hex wrench included in the kit.
Then pick up the seat and gently push it onto the tabs of the brackets with the holes that are on the bushings of the microlift mechanism. Finally fix the insert with screws.
Replacement Selection Criteria
If it so happened that the issue of replacing the toilet seat arose, you need to choose a toilet seat cover for existing plumbing. It is recommended to measure the plumbing fixture in terms of size and shape. The location of the mounting holes for the seat should also be clarified.
The size in width is measured at the points of greatest “take-off” of the structure. The length dimension is taken from the edge of the front of the curb to the point of the center line passing between the centers of the holes intended for fastening the toilet seat.
Standard sizes of plumbing for different designs. Based on these parameters, the toilet seat is selected in case of a new installation instead of the old toilet seat. If you know these sizes, it’s easy to choose a seat with the right configuration.
Often the owners of the toilet, which had to change the toilet seat, instead of the standard design prefer to choose more advanced models. Such a choice is explained by their desire for novelty.
Meanwhile, the new “heated”, “backlit”, “with motion sensors” in practice turn out to be even bigger problems. A serious manufacturer of sanitary ware is in no hurry to offer such an "exclusive" to the buyer. Such proposals come, as a rule, from Chinese firms.
Exclusive toilet seats
Plumbing fixtures for the toilet, equipped with electronics, have long been no surprise. Recently, toilets have also come close to electronic fraternity. Regulators of discharge, water intake, disinfection, filtration - these functions become integral parts of bidets and urinals.
Some of these functions are also used on toilet seats. So, electronic bidet covers and heated seats are quickly gaining popularity.
Installing an electric model is basically similar to installing it in a standard variation. The only addition is laying the cable and installing an electrical outlet.
Toilet bowl from the group of "exclusive" products. In addition to the usual functions, the device is equipped with an additional "chip" - a seat heating system. For the installation of such plumbing, an additional supply of electrical communications is required
The design of the models with the backlight of the bowl is not entirely clear - what benefit do they bring to the visitor of the toilet? Nevertheless, these decisions remain relevant due to the stability of their demand in the market.
The installation of a backlit seat should include the installation of an electrical network in the toilet room. At the same time, there are models of toilet seat covers where the backlight is powered by batteries.
Batteries are built directly into the seat structure. Do not do without the installation of electrical communications and in the case of the use of toilets with the function of motion control.
Problems Replacing a Seat
Some problems when replacing the toilet seat or lid may occur on the plumbing, which has served the owners for several years. Especially often we remove fastenings on an old toilet seat is complicated if metal bolts and nuts, subject to corrosion, were used.
A high level of humidity in the toilet area is created by the water present in the flushing tank. This is the main reason for the appearance of rust and oxides on the thread.
To unscrew the nuts from the fixing bolts in this condition is extremely difficult, and sometimes impossible, by traditional methods. We have to resort to radical measures.
Metal fasteners of toilet plumbing fixtures that do not have protection against oxides and corrosion have the “boil” properties. In such cases, only unconventional approaches help to loosen the nuts.
So, if the thread of a bolt or stud is damaged by corrosion and twisting the nut is not possible even with a wrench, the problem can still be solved.
Why do the following:
- Apply an electric drill.
- Insert a drill bit with a diameter slightly less than the wall thickness of the nut into the drill chuck.
- Carefully drill the nut from its lower edge to the upper.
- Insert a suitable metal rod into the hole.
- By swinging the rod, try to “break” the nut.
Sometimes a similar situation appears on plastic fittings. It happens that during installation (during cleaning) the threaded part of the stud is accidentally damaged. A defect in the plastic thread will also prevent the seat mounting from being removed in the usual way.
If you can’t twist the nuts with a tool, you can cut them with a sharp thin knife, preheating the blade of the knife to the melting temperature of the plastic (120-130º C).
Part of the seat fittings with covers is made of brass and bronze. This metal is not susceptible to corrosion, but has the ability to oxidize rapidly in the presence of moisture. Oxides, in turn, form “growths” on the thread, which over time become comparable in hardness to the same metal.
To turn off such connections helps their preliminary wetting (and time delay) with engine oil. Lubricate the connection easily and conveniently with a plastic disposable syringe.
The installation video will help you to quickly install the seat on gas lifts.
A toilet bowl is a household plumbing fixture, the frequency of use of which is incomparable with the operation of other household accessories.
Not surprisingly, many citizens are puzzled by the problem of removing one seat from the toilet, followed by replacing it with another. But this problem is solved and done, if desired, with your own hands..
Have you repeatedly changed the mount without changing the cover? Or do you prefer to buy a new seat instead of the old one with a breakdown? Or maybe you use one of the exclusive cover options - with a bidet function or with a backlight? Share your opinions and recommendations in the comments below.