In an effort to protect the house from cold, noise, dust and other negative external influences, a person seals building structures. Along with the improvement of insulating characteristics, the quality of ventilation is reduced - the intake of clean air is reduced.
The problem can be solved in many ways. One of the most affordable and effective methods is to arrange a supply valve in the wall, providing the necessary flow of fresh air. In this material we will talk about the need to install this device, weigh the pros and cons, and also reveal the secrets of installing a wall air inlet valve.
The need to install a ventilation valve
The main function of the supply ventilation valve is to provide fresh air to the apartment or house.
A wall ventilator normalizes the microclimate of the room when natural ventilation does not cope with its task.
With the mass replacement of wooden window blocks with PVC products, natural ventilation has lost its effectiveness - external air flow has significantly decreased due to the tightness of modern structures. The speed of circulation of air flows in a confined space tends to zero, which extremely negatively affects the quality of the microclimate.
The first sign of insufficient air intake is condensation on the windows. High humidity contributes to the development of microorganisms - mold and fungi
If measures are not taken to improve ventilation, then over time minor troubles can cause more serious consequences:
- The concentration of carbon dioxide rises, which adversely affects the well-being of a person. Fatigue, drowsiness, headache, decreased performance are the result of a lack of oxygen.
- High humidity and lack of air circulation is an excellent environment for the development of pathogens. Mold spores can cause allergic reactions or provoke the appearance of bronchial asthma. At risk are young children and people with reduced immunity.
- Exhaust ventilation works inefficiently with a low air flow - unpleasant odors, pollution, harmful substances are not eliminated naturally.
- In conditions of constant high humidity, structural elements of a building wear out faster.
The operation of the window in the ventilation mode is able to solve the above problems, but at the same time the main advantages of the “plastic” glazing are negated: heat and noise insulation.
We also recommend reading material on other ways of arranging forced ventilation.
The wall “inlet” normalizes the movement of air masses in the room. Under normal conditions (pressure drop 10 Pa), most models pass about 25-30 cubic meters / hour, which meets the requirements of sanitary standards
Design and principle of operation
The design of the ventilation valve is quite primitive. The device consists of a cylindrical body, the diameter of which is 6-14 cm. Inside the valve there is heat and noise insulation, as well as a filter.
Models from different manufacturers may look different in appearance. Some “air inlets” are equipped with additional elements and functionality. For example: temperature sensor, humidity control, fan, remote control system
The individual elements of a typical valve design perform the following functions:
- Air duct Through the pipe, the air masses enter the room from the outside. The diameter of the duct largely determines the performance of the supply valve. As a rule, this element is made of plastic.
- Ventilation grill. It is located on the outside of the wall and is intended to protect the internal elements of the device from small animals, rain and debris. The optimal manufacturing material is aluminum. Some models have a mosquito net made of polymer threads.
- Heat and noise insulating insert. It passes through the entire duct and protects the wall from freezing, providing a reduction in street noise.
- Filter element. Cleans incoming air from dust.
- Decorative cover. Installed on the inside of the wall. The plastic head is equipped with a handle for adjusting the air flow.
Many manufacturers equip the valve with a sealing ring with a shutter. Both parts are placed on the inside of the wall and inhibit gusts of wind.
Using the ventilator, you can control the air exchange by forcing or suppressing the circulation of air masses. With proper valve placement, drafts do not occur
The system operates on a simple principle. Air passing through the grill and filter is cleaned, moves along the heat-sound-insulating channel and warms up a bit. In the confined space of the pipe, the air flow rate decreases, it enters the adjustable damper, and then through the technological holes into the room.
Ventilation can be carried out continuously with the windows closed. In this case, the room will not cool. If plastic windows are installed in the room, then it may be worth considering the option of installing a supply valve on the window.
However, for normal air circulation, the following conditions must be met:
- the presence of a working hood;
- the movement of air masses even with closed doors indoors - it is necessary to provide a gap between the floor and the door of 1.5 cm or equip ventilation grilles.
The operation of the hood can be verified experimentally. Open the window and bring thin paper to the grate. With good traction, the sheet will be attracted to the ventilation duct.
If the sheet does not hold onto the grill, then ventilation needs to be cleaned. In the warm season, the air is very "heavy" and it will not work to check the serviceability of natural ventilation
Points for and against"
The wall supply valve, like any other device, has undoubted advantages and disadvantages.
Arguments in favor of the ventilator:
- The frequency of opening / closing the window is reduced. This extends the life of window fittings and saves time.
- The power of the ventilation valves installed in the wall exceeds the performance of the window “air inlets” and can reach 60-70 cubic meters per hour.
- The device partially eliminates pollution and filters street air.
- The ability to regulate air flow based on the season and the needs of a particular house.
- The device has compact dimensions - the inner box is almost invisible on the wall, it can be hidden behind a curtain.
- Compared to conventional ventilation through a window, the operation of the wall valve is not accompanied by heat loss.
- The supply device increases the efficiency of the extract - wet exhaust air is removed faster.
The system operates autonomously - the valve operates due to pressure differences in the street and in the room.
A vent valve is relatively inexpensive. If desired, the simplest model of the device can be made from available materials with your own hands
Negative moments of the use of supply equipment:
- the need to make a through hole in the wall - the integrity of the structure is in some way violated;
- non-compliance with the installation technology is fraught with freezing of the wall or duct;
- in severe frosts, fresh air ventilation can lead to lower indoor temperatures.
Some refuse to install a wall valve due to the need to drill the structure. Work requires certain skills from the performer. To ensure effective ventilation, the device filter should be regularly cleaned of accumulated debris.
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The ventilation wall valve is necessary for the formation of stable air exchange in rooms with sealed window structures and a "non-breathing" finish
A small-sized device, consisting of an air flow regulator, a casing in the form of a pipe, filters and insulation, will ensure the supply of clean air to the room in the required volume
The part of the valve located indoors is designed as a discreet part with a neutral color that does not affect the design style
The main part of the wall ventilation valve is installed in the thickness of the wall. From the outside, only the grill is visible, protecting from birds, insects, dust
Structurally, the internal components of ventilation devices may vary. Among them there are models with heating and humidification of the air supplied to the room
In regions with a predominance of low temperatures, wall valves are mounted using covers with insulation
If the house is equipped with a ventilated facade, the outside is flush with the future surface of the facade
Wall valves do not stand out against the background of the house cladding, if the owners did not want to emphasize the exterior details
Wall ventilation device
Wall valve device
Indoor Valve Cover
Assembled ventilation valve
Wall valve option above the radiator
Thermally insulated enclosures for the wall valve
Wall valves in a ventilated facade
Vent valve and siding
Parameters for choosing a built-in ventilator
Before buying a supply valve, it is necessary to compare the main parameters of different models:
- device performance;
- permissible operating temperature;
- length and diameter of the duct;
- management method;
- sound insulation level;
- manufacturer company.
The power of the inflow. On average, wall valves give out fresh air up to 40 cubic meters per hour. When determining the optimal performance, it is worth considering the volume of the room, its purpose and the number of people living.
For a residential area, the norm of air exchange is 3 cubic meters / hour per one square meter of the area of the house. If the apartment has three or more rooms, you will have to install several valves
Operating temperature. Manufacturers indicate a range of operating temperatures. The choice of model depends on the climatic conditions of a particular region. If the ventilation valve for “warm” terrain is used in frosty winters, condensation may constantly form on it. The frozen liquid forms an ice plug, and the operation of the supply duct is blocked.
The dimensions of the duct. The length of the pipe is selected based on the width of the wall. The diameter of the channel determines the throughput of the valve - the larger it is, the more productive the device. When choosing the size and shape of the duct, it is necessary to focus on the installation site of the “air inlet”.
If the valve will be mounted under the window, it is necessary to measure the distance between the heating radiator and the window sill. The decorative grill should fit in this area without any problems.
Management method. Manual and automated models are available on the market. The former are affordable, the intensity of ventilation is regulated by a manual switch.
Automated devices are equipped with a hygrostat - a device that controls the humidity level in the room. The user independently sets the humidity indicator (40-60%) and if this value rises above, the valve flap will open. After normalization of humidity - the air supply from the street will stop.
The level of noise and heat insulation. When incorporating a ventilation valve into a thick wall, the presence of a soundproofing insert is highly desirable. Basic thermal insulation is provided in all models, but for the northern regions it is better to choose a device with an additional insulation casing.
Additional thermal insulation minimizes the risk of freezing of the ventilation duct in severe frosts, ensuring uninterrupted operation of the system all year round
Company manufacturer. In the market of ventilation equipment, wall valves of foreign and domestic firms are represented. The following brands and brands received a positive assessment of consumers: Flakt Woods (Riv, Kiv125), Vents (PS100), Aereco (EHT, EFT), Helios (ZLE100, ZLA 80-160), Domvent, etc.
Aereco EHT hygromechanical wall supply valve, depending on the humidity level in the room, produces an air volume of 5 to 40 cubic meters / h
Installation technology of supply and wall valve
The installation process is quite simple, but specialized equipment will be required to operate. It is important to choose the installation location and follow the algorithm of actions.
Determining the optimal installation location
When choosing a room for installing a wall "air intake" should be guided by the following rules:
- Installation is preferably carried out in a bearing wall.
- In an apartment building, it is better to install the valve with the exterior of the balcony or loggia.
- It is undesirable to arrange forced ventilation on the wall of the building facing the road and the industrial zone.
It is not recommended to use the wall valve in rooms with a high degree of humidity - in winter there is a high risk of freezing of the device. Alternatively, you can use the “air inlets” with the heating function.
Having decided on the wall, you need to choose the best place to insert the valve.
The most successful sites are:
- between the windowsill and the batteries - the supply air is heated from the heating device and distributed throughout the house;
- at the top of the window opening (2-2.2 m) - air masses fall into a warm environment, warm up to a comfortable temperature and fall down.
In both cases, the wall valve will be hidden behind the curtain.
When installing the ventilator at the top of the window, it is necessary to maintain a distance between the slope and the device of at least 30 cm - this will reduce the likelihood of freezing of the ventilation duct
Necessary tools and materials
To insert the supply valve into the wall you will need:
- stationary drill or a powerful hammer drill with a diamond crown, the diameter of which should be slightly larger than the size of the duct;
- industrial or household vacuum cleaner - especially important if the installation is carried out in a “clean” area, where the repair is already completed;
- polyurethane foam;
- plaster mix;
- construction knife;
- curly screwdriver;
- marking tools: measuring tape, building level, pencil.
Ventilator installation - dusty and noisy work. Therefore, personal protective equipment should be used: gloves, glasses, construction headphones and a dust mask with a dust filter.
To install a ventilation valve with a breather, a device for cleaning and heating the air mass, diamond drilling will be required, as a conventional drill will not be able to drill a hole of sufficient diameter:
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Step 1: Marking before forming a hole for installing the inlet
Step 2: Location of the drilling rig with the required slope
Step 3: Remove dust from the drilled hole
Step 4: Installation in the hole of the valve cover with grille
Work sequence
The whole technological process can be divided into several main stages.
Stage 1. Wall preparation. If the building is lined with hinged panels, then they must be temporarily dismantled. Mark the underside of the wall for drilling - attach the valve base and mark the contour with a pencil. It is advisable to organize dust removal.
Use a masking tape to fix the plastic bag and the plastic container. Connect a vacuum cleaner hose to the “trap” from above - dust generated during drilling will enter the waste bin
Stage 2. Drilling holes. Using a diamond crown or a drill, start drilling to a depth of 7-10 cm. Remove the broken-off concrete fragments, knock a notch in the center with a chisel for more stable positioning of the drill. The entire channel must be done under a slight slope outward to prevent moisture from getting inside the room.
During drilling, the work area must be moistened periodically - this measure will reduce dust formation and protect the tool from overheating
Stage 3. Channel cleaning. Insert the vacuum cleaner hose into the slotted hole and remove all dust from the hole.
Stage 4. Installation of thermal insulation. To accommodate an additional layer of heat and sound insulation, expansion of the hole may be necessary. The exact dimensions of the channel depend on the type of insulation.
The optimal heat insulator for the wall valve is foamed polymeric material. It does not lose its qualities in high humidity
Stage 5. Installing the sleeve. Place the duct pipe into the channel with a heat-insulating casing, moving it with screwing movements outward.
Stage 6. Mounting the housing and cover. On the outside of the wall, secure the protective grill. From the inside, mark out the installation of the housing, drill holes, hammer in plastic dowels and fix the panel to the wall.
We also have material that describes in more detail the process of installing a supply wall valve.
After the housing is fixed, a damper regulating the air flow and a dust filter are mounted. The final step is to install the cover
Vent valve maintenance
The supply unit must be cleaned regularly. In a metropolis, it is necessary to clean the internal elements twice a year - dust, small particles of dirt and soot from automobile gases settle on the filter of the device.
It is better to clean the valve in warm, calm weather so that cold air does not blow out through the hole in the wall. It is necessary to remove the cover from the inside of the device, remove the filter element and sound insulation.
If the filter and the noise barrier are made of synthetics, then it is enough to wash them in soapy water, dry and reinstall
The duct also needs to be cleaned - it must be vacuumed. If the inlet is installed on the first or ground floor, you can remove the protective grille from the side of the street and blow out the garbage out with a vacuum cleaner.
Video clip about the need for installation, design features and the principle of operation of the supply wall valve:
Step-by-step installation instructions for the Domvent ventilation duct:
To insert the “stitch” into the wall, you will have to saw the outer wall of the house. For all the complexity, the task is technically simple. Having a tool for drilling, the owner of the apartment or house will be able to install the valve yourself.
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